I did sleep well tonight, though it wasn’t long enough. It never is at this pace, but I still wish it could have been longer. Since I knew I wasn’t pushing a long day I got breakfast at the bar and then headed out. It was still early enough in the season that the roads were just starting to open here around the park, which is a bit surprising, but nice for me, as there wasn’t any traffic. The road up toward Ashton-Flagg is pretty good, and the grade wasn’t bad. There are even a few spots on the way that would have been good to camp at. Maybe next time I’ll stop there. Once you start getting into Yellowstone proper the camp sites get more formal and reservations are required. Eventually the dirt road turns back into pavement and then a quick hop onto the main road that serves the west part of Yellowstone and the main road for Grand Teton. I hate this road. This was the third time I’ve ridden on it and it seems like it is worse every time. Yellowstone and Teton are awful for cyclists. There’s too much traffic, and too many people driving large rented vehicles. They don’t give you any space, and are driving far too fast. These parks, in the summer at least, are built for the automobile. Also I had forgotten how much climbing there was in this section. Lots of steep rollers, and very little resupply, and no real water to speak of.
I was ‘over’ this section of the ride and decided (against almost anyone’s better judgement) to go all the way in to Colter Bay to eat at a restaurant. I thought it made sense since this was an ‘easy’ day. Well it took too long to get there and get back, and there were big lines, and the food took a long time and well, it was a dumb idea. When I was done I felt stupid that I had done it, and stopped at the gas station just off the road, where I should have just picked up some packaged snacks and kept moving.
This really was a rough section for me. Once out of the parks you start climbing up again. I remembered the big climb, but we cheated and did it on pavement last time. This time I was on the route and, while it started off pretty easy, it quickly turned rough. And again I was over this part. I just wanted to get to the top so I could zoom down to Lava Mountain lodge and grab a sandwich and go to bed.
I forgot that there were two nasty bits still. Once you pop out of the gravel by Togwatee, you still have a significant climb up to the top of the pass. Then you don’t get to ride down the pavement on the other side, but instead have to take Brooks Lake road down. This road doesn’t get any maintenance, and this year it was still covered with snow. Some of it was rideable, but most of it was not, especially at the top. I pushed through some snow, and then immediately had peanut butter mud caking my wheels. I had to push and scrape, then push through snow, then scrape off mud. I also swore I’d never do the whole route again because of this section. (I still probably will.) I fell a couple of times and got mad more than that. Eventually the road became rideable and I was able to get down to the lodge, just in time to grab something to eat and get a room. It was only 8pm. I was so over the ride at this point I didn’t care. I also didn’t want to even try going up Union Pass in the dark. It was one of my least favorite places, and the decent, it was the worst back in 2013.
I got a hostel bed, but it happened that no one else was in the same cabin, so I had it to myself. I took a shower and turned the heat up to full blast. I had a nice hot sleep.
